Well – these have the dreaded Dallas DS “all in one” Real Time Clock (RTC) chip with integrated Xtal and battery. Now the battery is dead, configuration is. FEATURES. ▫ Drop–in replacement for IBM AT computer clock/calendar. ▫ Pin compatible with the MCB and. DSA. ▫ Totally nonvolatile with over Dallas DS, DS and Compatibles – External Battery Rework Advice. The following is some extra information that you might find useful if you plan to.
|Published (Last):||11 March 2014|
|PDF File Size:||3.24 Mb|
|ePub File Size:||12.29 Mb|
|Price:||Free* [*Free Regsitration Required]|
The usual reason for these errors is a flat CMOS battery. In most machines this problem is easily rectified, simply requiring an over-the-counter 3 to 6v battery replacement on the motherboard.
However the process is not always quite so hassle-free. Along with the real time clock this chip also holds the CMOS battery, all entombed together in a compact plugin unit. Rather neat perhaps, until the battery goes flat in which case the whole chip needs to be replaced!
That is assuming you can get the part in the first place. Not easy when dealing with a computer over 20 years old. Dallae time I booted up the machine, I was greeted with the errors above.
Dallas DS1287 DIP Real Time Clock 3pcs
I needed dallqs do something about it! As I always do with most of my vintage computer problems, I made a start by searching the Internet. Almost immediately I found an article written by someone who had the same issue and had published a solution. It involved hacking away parts of the chip, then rewiring an external battery onto it.
Following the web article Ss1287 hacked away the chip material with a small serrated knife. I found the substrate quite soft and easy to cut into.
Soon I’d uncovered the two pins I needed to access photo 2. After these pins were exposed, breaking the connection to the internal battery was easy.
All that remained then was to simply wire up a button battery holder to the exposed metal. My hack job can be seen below. It isn’t a soldering job to be proud of and it’s not too pretty fallas the connections are quite secure.
After making sure the solder was firmly connected it was a matter of inserting a 3v lithium button battery into the holder photo 3replacing the chip on the board and screwing the PC cover back on. Booting up with the reference disk, setting the configuration and clock then rebooting showed the ds1827 worked perfectly!
Finding a Dallas DS replacement
No errors, just a straight boot-through as it should be. All in all, the repair took about a hour and was pretty straightforward. All power to the Internet and particular thanks to Peter.
Wendt who wrote up the procedure.